LS, LT, Coyote & Godzilla
Engine Swaps.

Modern power in a classic body, done as one job.

Swaps we've done.

An engine swap is never just the engine. The reason a lot of swapped classics run badly is that somebody bolted in an LS and left the fuel system, the wiring, the cooling, and the brakes where they were in 1972. We do the whole job. The engine, the transmission behind it, the driveline under it, the fuel to feed it, the harness and computer to run it, the radiator to keep it alive, the exhaust to let it breathe, and the brakes to stop what it can now do.

Most of the swaps you'll see on this site are GM LS and LSX: a 525-horsepower LS3 in a '70 C10, an LSX 454 in a '69 Camaro, LS3s in two K5 Blazers, a 6.2 LS in a '78 K10. On the Ford side, our '73 F-100 runs a 480-horsepower Coyote 5.0 and a Tremec six-speed. We also do GM's newer LT engines and Ford's 7.3 Godzilla for owners who want the latest thing under the hood. Swaps come to us two ways: as part of a full build, or as a roll-in job on a car that already drives. A swap typically spends 30 to 45 days in the shop. We're in Pelham, Alabama, south of Birmingham, and we take in cars from anywhere in the lower 48 for this work.

What a complete swap includes.

01

Engine & Mounts

Crate LS, LS3, LSX, or LT from GM; Coyote 5.0 or 7.3 Godzilla from Ford; or a properly built engine you supply. Mounts, oil pan, and accessory drive sorted so it sits right in the bay and clears the steering. GM's connect-and-cruise packages, which pair the engine, controller, and harness from the factory, are a clean starting point and we've used them on the C10 and the '84 Blazer.

02

Fuel, Wiring & Cooling

A fuel-injected engine needs real fuel pressure, so the tank, pump, and lines get done, not adapted. A harness and ECU that match the engine, with the gauges wired to read it. A radiator and fans sized for the horsepower and for Alabama in August.

03

Transmission & Driveline

An overdrive automatic or a manual that fits the engine and how you drive: 4L60E and 4L80 behind our LS Blazers, a five-speed behind the Camaro's LSX, a Tremec six-speed behind the F-100's Coyote. Rear end and gearing matched so the car cruises at highway speed without screaming.

04

Exhaust, Brakes & Suspension

Custom exhaust that fits the chassis and sounds like you want. And the part people skip: brakes and suspension that match the new power. Our swapped cars run Wilwood discs, coilovers, four-links, and upgraded rear ends because 500 horsepower on drum brakes isn't a car anybody should drive.

Your engine or ours.

New crate engine

The usual path. A new LS, LSX, LT, Coyote, or Godzilla with a known history and a factory rating. We'll help you pick the one that fits the car, the budget, and the transmission you want behind it.

An engine you already have

A crate engine or a properly built motor you're bringing with you can work. We'll look it over before we commit it to the car, because once it's in, it's our problem too.

A pull-out of unknown history

We generally steer away from junkyard engines nobody can vouch for. Not a hard no, but they get assessed first, and we'll tell you honestly if we think it's going to cost you more than a new one would.

Swaps are billed on time and materials like everything else we do. You'll get an estimate up front, and nothing outside it happens without your approval. If you want the swap as part of a full resto-mod build, we'll scope it together.

Common questions.

What people ask before they swap.
Can you swap an LS or a Coyote into my car?

Almost certainly, if it's a classic car or truck. We've done GM trucks, a first-gen Camaro, and a Ford pickup, and the approach carries over to most of what came out of Detroit before the mid-'80s. Tell us the year, make, and model and we'll tell you what's involved.

Do I have to go LS? What about a Ford or a newer GM engine?

No. Ford classics usually get the Coyote 5.0, which is what's in our F-100, and the 7.3 Godzilla is the answer when a Ford truck wants torque. On the GM side, the newer LT engines are an option alongside the LS family. Tell us the car and what you want it to do and we'll point you at the engine that fits.

How long is the car in the shop?

An engine swap typically spends 30 to 45 days in the shop. That's time in the shop, not time from the day you call: start availability is a separate conversation. The car, the engine, parts availability, and how much of the rest of the car has to change to support the new power can move it either way. Once we've seen the car and agreed on the scope, you'll get a window for yours and photos every week against it.

Do I need a full build to get a swap?

No. Plenty of swaps are roll-in jobs on a car that already looks the way the owner wants it. If the car needs paint and an interior too, we'll talk about doing it all at once, but a swap on its own is a job we take.

Ready for modern
power?